A special Thanks to Ken Y.
for talking me through
the process.
(click on the picture
for a larger version)
3' X 5' Backer Board, $8.95
Carbide Saber Saw bit (not shown) $2.35
Safety equipment, priceless. (and NOT optional)
James Hardie products Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS)
Misc. hand and power tools
Lay out 1 foot squares
1'X1' squares cut with circular saw (dust mask and safety goggles required)
picture shows laying out the drill hole points, I built a template to make this quicker.
After the holes are drilled to the size of the pins, the bat is placed on the
wheel and a circle is marked while the wheel is running. this circle is about 11.75"
A saber saw (jig saw to some) is used to cut the circle. I started out using
the wood bit that was in the saw. It was good for about 2 bats before the
teeth were gone. I then put in the carbide bit and cut the rest.
Roger G (from Australia) sent in this method of cutting: Just cut a little oversize,
say 1 or 2 millimetres outside the desired true circle. In the freshly-made bat,
drill a centre hole say 5/64 inch, just right for a thin nail.
Now you need a table saw (circular saw running in a table bench). Remove the
saw blade and replace with an abrasive masonry cut-off wheel.
The idea is to clamp a piece of scrap wood on the saw table top, to the
right of the abrasive blade. Position the bat on the right side of the
blade, on top of the wood, so its centre hole is opposite the leading edge
of the blade. Tap the thin nail down into the wood, so the bat can be
rotated with its roughly circular edge running against the abrasive wheel,
using the nail as an axle. Rotate the bat clockwise, with its edge being
just nibbled by the abrasive wheel. Result is a smooth professional edge,
worth the little extra trouble.
A sure form tool is used to chamfer the edges. I put a bevel on both edges.
Finished bat!
And it works!
For those who prefer a non-porous bat, a coat of spar varnish or verithane would
seal it up nicely.
Web page by Tony Olsen